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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.